Here at Outdoor Wear Mag, we really enjoy a mixture of heritage and contemporary. Whether that's a leading brand like Holubar (see Issue 2) with a tried and tested offering of classic garments, or a new kid on the block like Mamnick (see Issue 3) channelling historic details into their contemporary portfolio. We appreciate both the original and the re-invented in equal measure, understanding that they bring something similar, yet distinct in their own right, to the table.
For
Issue 4, we decided to place the spotlight on some iconic vintage outerwear
from the archive of Jojo Elgarice,
owner of Jojo’s General Store by Rag
Parade in Sheffield. Self-confessed vintage menswear obsessive with a
penchant for well-made garms, Jojo
pulled some rare items off the racks for us to look at. We also asked the man
himself about his fascination with vintage outerwear and why it has seen a
resurgence in recent years.
Read
on to find out more and head over to Instagram to see more vintage outerwear
from Jojo @ragparadesheffield
What
is the aim or approach of Rag Parade?
I
suppose the aim of Rag Parade is to offer well made and unusual garments that
you wouldn’t often find in one place. The selection of stock is my own personal
edit on what I think is good looking and functional gear.
How
did Rag Parade come to build its collection of vintage outerwear?
I
started off selling my old music and skate tees in a shop in Sheffield city
centre but quickly became fixated with vintage jackets and outerwear. I became
obsessed with finding better and better gear and was really into the details of
the pieces: Zips, throat-tabs, chin straps, press studs and buttons were (and
still are) key elements in what I was looking for when buying a vintage
garment.
What
are the best outdoor spots around Sheffield?
We’re
spoilt for choice around Sheffield with outdoor spots. Stanage Edge, which is
great for climbing and bouldering, is just a stone’s throw away. Dam Flask,
Rivelin Valley, Mam Tor, Chatsworth, the Trans Pennine Trail and lots of
beautiful parks and gardens are all close as well. The list goes on...
What
is it about vintage outerwear that appeals to you?
Firstly,
I love the functionality and the way the fabric ages. The age and wear of a
vintage garment is almost impossible to replicate in my opinion.
Why
do you think that outdoor gear has made such a comeback in current street
style?
I
think it makes the whole outfit flow and it ties everything together. I suppose
jackets have almost become ‘statement’ pieces. I know we’ve had a good summer
but it’s also always freezing in Sheffield, so you need a good jacket
year-round!
What
are some of your favourite features of a vintage garment?
Like
most other ‘jacket geeks’ I’m a sucker for zips and labels. Also hoods and
pockets. They just made them better back in the day!
Who
are some of the British brands that have been responsible for progressing
developments in outerwear in the twentieth century?
I
suppose what made British brands so powerful was the cloth. Grenfell Cloth for
example was around long before Ventile and it played a major role in many great
designs and garments, as well as early waterproofing techniques.
I
think Burberry played a huge part by inventing Gabardine. Shackleton wore
Burberry for some of his expeditions and it really showed the endurance of the
cloth. The Burberry Trench coat was created during the First World War and it
is an important part of how garments developed afterwards.
I’ve
always been fascinated with Wyncol fabric by Aquascutum as well, which Edmond Hillary
used in his Everest climb in 1953. It was a Cotton/Nylon/Poplin mix and could
apparently resist winds of up to 100mph. We’re pleased to have recently added
two garments made in this cloth to our Archive.
Although
Barbour didn’t necessarily invent waxed cotton or oilskin fabric, I think that
the work they achieved with military and outdoors clothing really did set a
precedent. Along with Belstaff, they created some amazing garments with waxed
cotton.
Then
when fabrics like Gore-Tex were introduced, Berghaus were the first European
company to use it in their garments. I love old Mountain Equipment down Jackets
and just like Berghaus, they remain very iconic pieces for me.
Fabric
has always played a key part in outerwear, from waxed cotton, to Ventile and
Gore-Tex. What fabric is the most functional for an outdoor garment?
I
love waxed cotton: the way it wears, fades and cracks. But, the up-keep can be
hard work and impractical. I’ve personally never been a huge fan of wearing
Goretex and disagree that it has “breathable properties”. It’s a bit of a
sweatbox for me! Ventile is the King in my eyes: the breathability is mega and
as long as it’s looked after properly it really does the job. The simple look
of the fabric means that almost anything can be made from it too.
Do
you think we will continue to see outdoor wear rise in popularity in the coming
years?
Yes
I think it will become more popular, especially as more people are growing
concerned over quality rather than quantity. In the shop we sell outerwear even
on the hottest summer days, so I suppose that’s testimony to its demand.
Any
parting words or advice for our readers?
Try
and buy the best kit you can so you don’t have to buy it again.
Do you have an e commerce site? I am searching for a grey RAF mountain rescue jacket!
ReplyDeleteBest to get in contact with Rag Parade via their instagram page.
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