Craghoppers Archive Collection

Founded over 50 years Craghoppers are a brand full of history and this history is going to be celebrated by a new archive collection, which is launching next year. To find out more we sent some questions over to e-commerce executive Alex Wall who explained more.

Could you explain a bit about the history of Craghoppers?

We were actually founded back in the late 60’s by Brian Gaskin and Roy Holmes but originally operated under the brand G&H Product. The first pieces we put out were the Cagjac and our Kiwi trousers which have since gone on to sell over 7 million pairs worldwide.

Gaskin was a potholer by trade and one of the leading members of the Cave Rescue Organisation. At the time, the only waterproofs available in the UK were from Peter Storm and Henri Lloyd but both were either too light or too heavy which is where the idea for the original Cagjac came from. As a mid-weight waterproof, the Cagjac was perfect for caving, climbing and walking.

In 1975, we sponsored the successful Everest expedition being run by Chris Bonnington. The Cagjac was actually the jacket of choice up to about 10,000ft. After 10,000ft mountaineers opted for our Nordwand which is actually the piece of kit you can see Doug Scott wearing if you Google ‘Doug Scott Everest’!

G&H Products acquired the Craghoppers brand in 1979 after their owners wanted to retire and decided to operate under the name Craghoppers going forward.

In recent years, we’ve spent a lot of time perfecting our NosiLife technology which can be found across a lot of our products and for next year we’ve got our upcoming Archive Collection.

What is the Archive Collection?

We wanted to see if we could recreate our iconic styles but use the technologies that we put into our current pieces. We feel we’ve managed that and the entire team are really proud of the range.

What are the main inspirations behind this particular collection?

You’ll see a lot of influences from the late 80’s/ early 90’s in this collection.

You’ve already told us quite a bit of stuff we didn’t know about Craghoppers - do you have any more interesting facts people may not know about the brand?

The founder of a well-known Californian outdoor brand used to fly over to the UK to buy our gear as he was unable to get anything of the sort back in the states. You can actually read about this in his book ‘let my people go surfing’.

What do you reckon to the crossover now between proper outdoor gear and everyday wear?

There’s definitely a crossover here in the North West and you can judge the popularity based on the new stores that’ve been popping up in Manchester and Liverpool.

In the last 12 months alone, we’ve had Patagonia and Fjallraven open flagship retail stores in Manchester and then we’ve had Ellis Brigham open up Outsiders Store in Liverpool.

Alongside that, other retailers such as Oi Polloi seem to be stocking more outdoor brands than ever. There is definitely a blurred line in the North West between outdoor and everyday wear.

Our lookbook for the collection, which we’ve worked on with Proper Mag, focusses on outdoor gear in the city so you’ll see the crossover feature a lot in that. There’s a video to come too which we’re really excited to put out.

What’s your top three Craghoppers pieces?

For me, the Bridport Shirt Jacket, Kiwi Pro Shorts and the Venta Lite II. I’m pretty confident everyone in the office owns a Venta Lite.

The stand out piece from the Archive Collection, for me, is the Ashfield Half-Zip. Had a lot of compliments on this from people who’ve seen the range already!

What’s the plans going forward for Craghoppers and also the Archive Collection?

For next season you’ll see some changes to some of our classic pieces. We’ve got a Venta Lite II vest and a hooded version of the jacket being added to the collection which I’m excited about. We’re going to start working on the next Archive Collection very soon so really looking forward to working with the design team on that.

You’ll see the Archive Collection drop as part of our Spring/ Summer 19 range.

This feature was initially released last year in No.2 of our magazine - you can shop the Craghoppers Archive Collection here: https://www.craghoppers.com/archive-collection/ 

Fronteer: Q+A with Jon Tang

Footwear that looks good, and is functional – that, put simply, is the best way for us to describe the offering of shoes from Fronteer. Just how do you manage to do that though? Well, we thought we’d get answers straight from the man himself, and pestered Jon Tang, founder and creative director of the brand to give us some insight.

Could you explain a bit about Fronteer? And how you started the brand?

​Fronteer is a lifestyle outdoor brand. It bridges the gap between performance outdoors and the everyday lifestyle. It's meant to really be the grey area between and tells a narrative of outdoor culture for the everyday. I started the brand in 2015 out of just my own shear passion to make something that spoke to things I loved like space, nature, inspiration and the idea of the journey. ​

What is the process like in designing and then manufacturing a pair of Fronteer Shoes? The Aqua Solo, for example, how long did it take to go from initial idea to finished product?

My timeline is around 5-6 months from sketch to consumer hands. A lot of process goes into really figuring what kind of product each is going to be. It's so important to really give a reason for everything that exists for each product. Everything really has to connect as whole to the inspiration from what it is and how that still is a part of the FRONTEER DNA.​

What are the inspirations behind the footwear you make?

I am inspired by the outdoor culture. I like to really dive into stories and fun facts about the outdoors that I can manifest into something tangible. It’s great when I can really find something that fits a great story but also gives you something you didn't know or expect.

Each pair of Fronteer shoes are limited in quantity - is this an intentional decision? Or just something that happened naturally?

​The decision to make less really comes from the idea that I just didn't want to overproduce something. We make a lot of things in this world and I want to be smart about what I'm putting into this world. ​

You've already worked on a collab with Manastash, do you reckon you'll be working on more collaborations? How did the Manastash collab come about?

​I love all the collaborations I get to do. I have a great relationship with that team. ​Collaborations are great because it gives you a moment to stretch your brand in a different kind of way that connects with the other brand. It offers a new kind of perspective for both brands. If it's the right kind of collaboration, I'm always willing to figure something out. The Manastash collab happened cause they were sitting across from me at a tradeshow. I'd see them everything. We both found we had a similar thought process on our own take on the outdoors. A connection happened almost instantly.

What plans do Fronteer have for the future?

Just to grow. And grow organically. I hope people can adopt FRONTEER naturally for their own everyday and stay with us on this journey of telling these outdoor cultured stories. ​

Rag Parade: Q+A with Jojo Elgarice

Here at Outdoor Wear Mag, we really enjoy a mixture of heritage and contemporary. Whether that's a leading brand like Holubar (see Issue 2) with a tried and tested offering of classic garments, or a new kid on the block like Mamnick (see Issue 3) channelling historic details into their contemporary portfolio. We appreciate both the original and the re-invented in equal measure, understanding that they bring something similar, yet distinct in their own right, to the table.

For Issue 4, we decided to place the spotlight on some iconic vintage outerwear from the archive of Jojo Elgarice, owner of Jojo’s General Store by Rag Parade in Sheffield. Self-confessed vintage menswear obsessive with a penchant for well-made garms, Jojo pulled some rare items off the racks for us to look at. We also asked the man himself about his fascination with vintage outerwear and why it has seen a resurgence in recent years.

Read on to find out more and head over to Instagram to see more vintage outerwear from Jojo @ragparadesheffield

What is the aim or approach of Rag Parade?

I suppose the aim of Rag Parade is to offer well made and unusual garments that you wouldn’t often find in one place. The selection of stock is my own personal edit on what I think is good looking and functional gear.

How did Rag Parade come to build its collection of vintage outerwear?

I started off selling my old music and skate tees in a shop in Sheffield city centre but quickly became fixated with vintage jackets and outerwear. I became obsessed with finding better and better gear and was really into the details of the pieces: Zips, throat-tabs, chin straps, press studs and buttons were (and still are) key elements in what I was looking for when buying a vintage garment.

What are the best outdoor spots around Sheffield?

We’re spoilt for choice around Sheffield with outdoor spots. Stanage Edge, which is great for climbing and bouldering, is just a stone’s throw away. Dam Flask, Rivelin Valley, Mam Tor, Chatsworth, the Trans Pennine Trail and lots of beautiful parks and gardens are all close as well. The list goes on...

What is it about vintage outerwear that appeals to you?

Firstly, I love the functionality and the way the fabric ages. The age and wear of a vintage garment is almost impossible to replicate in my opinion.

Why do you think that outdoor gear has made such a comeback in current street style?

I think it makes the whole outfit flow and it ties everything together. I suppose jackets have almost become ‘statement’ pieces. I know we’ve had a good summer but it’s also always freezing in Sheffield, so you need a good jacket year-round!

What are some of your favourite features of a vintage garment?

Like most other ‘jacket geeks’ I’m a sucker for zips and labels. Also hoods and pockets. They just made them better back in the day!

Who are some of the British brands that have been responsible for progressing developments in outerwear in the twentieth century?

I suppose what made British brands so powerful was the cloth. Grenfell Cloth for example was around long before Ventile and it played a major role in many great designs and garments, as well as early waterproofing techniques.

I think Burberry played a huge part by inventing Gabardine. Shackleton wore Burberry for some of his expeditions and it really showed the endurance of the cloth. The Burberry Trench coat was created during the First World War and it is an important part of how garments developed afterwards.

I’ve always been fascinated with Wyncol fabric by Aquascutum as well, which Edmond Hillary used in his Everest climb in 1953. It was a Cotton/Nylon/Poplin mix and could apparently resist winds of up to 100mph. We’re pleased to have recently added two garments made in this cloth to our Archive.

Although Barbour didn’t necessarily invent waxed cotton or oilskin fabric, I think that the work they achieved with military and outdoors clothing really did set a precedent. Along with Belstaff, they created some amazing garments with waxed cotton.

Then when fabrics like Gore-Tex were introduced, Berghaus were the first European company to use it in their garments. I love old Mountain Equipment down Jackets and just like Berghaus, they remain very iconic pieces for me.

Fabric has always played a key part in outerwear, from waxed cotton, to Ventile and Gore-Tex. What fabric is the most functional for an outdoor garment?

I love waxed cotton: the way it wears, fades and cracks. But, the up-keep can be hard work and impractical. I’ve personally never been a huge fan of wearing Goretex and disagree that it has “breathable properties”. It’s a bit of a sweatbox for me! Ventile is the King in my eyes: the breathability is mega and as long as it’s looked after properly it really does the job. The simple look of the fabric means that almost anything can be made from it too.

Do you think we will continue to see outdoor wear rise in popularity in the coming years?

Yes I think it will become more popular, especially as more people are growing concerned over quality rather than quantity. In the shop we sell outerwear even on the hottest summer days, so I suppose that’s testimony to its demand.

Any parting words or advice for our readers?

Try and buy the best kit you can so you don’t have to buy it again.

Nanamica: Q+A with Eiichiro Homa

A brand that continues to push boundaries when it comes to technical design, and for us epitomises the crossover between outdoor and everyday gear is nanamica. When the chance came up to ask some questions to the founder of the brand Eiichiro Homa we were delighted.

We’d also like to say thanks to Ian from nanamica for helping arrange the interview.

What does the name nanamica mean?

The word ‘nanamica’ can roughly be translated to the house of seven seas.

What are the main inspirations behind the collections that you create?

It is impossible to say I am not inspired by daily life in Tokyo. It is a very special city after all. I get inspiration from observing people on the train or street on their daily commute to work and myself as a user of nanamica garments. In addition, since my hobby is sailing, the ocean and marine aspects are fundamental to what we do. We try to add an element to each piece we create.

It is during these ‘on’ and ‘off’ periods where we find inspiration. Sportswear, military, workwear, American classics and other vintage pieces are also key.

The brand is sold and admired throughout the world - what makes your garments so popular?

nanamica was soon recognised as a pioneer in mixing fashion and function since its birth in 2003. By combining classic looking clothing with the very latest in technology of functionality, we have been able to create the best tools for our everyday lives the world over. Now this direction has become popular.

How much work goes into creating a particular garment? How long does it take to go from initial idea to the finished garment?

We invest a lot of time into each and every product we create. Whilst we have two collections per year, we also have 6 months to dedicate to each however, we are reviewing and revisiting constantly to ensure functional clothing that will stand the test of time and often come with a little surprise.

How big is the nanamica team?

The team at our HQ in Daikanyama is now 20 employees strong including myself. We also have 14 staff members across our stores.

nanamica has a number of physical store locations - how important to the brand is this? Are there plans for more stores? In Europe maybe?

We have four stores currently and these enable us to meet and have regular face-to-face interaction with our customers here in Japan. They act as a window and we prefer this type on interaction. 

Our two bricks and mortar stores in Tokyo are both in Daikanyama – a quieter neighbourhood when compared to Harajuku or Shibuya for example. If we had stores located there, we may not be able to take care of our customers one by one.

Elsewhere our 18fw collection will be stocked in 24 countries and we are looking at opening our own stores in Europe and North America.

Could you explain to us a bit more about The North Face Purple Label gear?

The North Face Purple Label is our collaboration with The North Face brand in Japan, which is owned and operated by GOLDWIN as it is in South Korea. The head of The North Face business at GOLDWIN is an old and dear friend. After establishing nanamica in 2003, I asked him to consider collaborating to create a new fashion-orientated line of The North Face.

What plans do nanamica have for the future?

As mentioned, a bricks and mortar presence overseas is next up but we will continue to do what we always have done: create the products that humans need to assist and enjoy their lives.

 

Information correct as of May 2018 - Feature first  published in Outdoor Wear Mag No.1