Q+A: Kavu

Seattle based brand Kavu are a “true outdoor” brand, established and in the hands of true outdoor enthusiasts. Founded in 1993 by founder Bobby Barr, the brand started with just one product – the iconic and revolutionary, Strapcap. Since then the brand has grown into a truly worldwide brand and is sold in stores all over the World. We had a chat with International Sales Director Jeremy Goodman.

When was Kavu founded? Could you explain a bit about the background of the brand?

KAVU was founded in 1993. Barry Barr, president and founder was running fishing boats in Alaska and would always lose his hat in the wind. At the time TEVA sandals were just getting hot. He took some of the burly sandal webbing, stitched it around the band of his hat and with a clasp could tighten the hat to withstand the outdoor conditions. Problem solved and product invented. 25 years later these hats are still made in Seattle and the brand has evolved to apparel, bags and accessories.

What does the name mean?

This is where the KAVU story really get’s good and it actually takes place prior to the invention of the Strapcap. Barry and his family grew up in the San Juan Islands - a small island chain between mainland US and Vancouver Island, British Columbia. His family had a small plane as transport. To check weather they’d call air control and if the weather was good enough to fly the response was KAVU - An aviation acronym that stands for "clear above visibility unlimited.” The term KAVU became their family motto and philosophy. It’s simple. We don’t know if tomorrow will come, so we might as well live today to the fullest. This means wake up early, work your butt off, get outside, and play hard. Smile and sweat and laugh as much as possible. Everyday you can do this and lay your head on the pillow at night exhausted with a big smile - this is a KAVU day.

How big is the team at Kavu? What does a typical day at Kavu HQ look like?

Our Seattle HQ has 19 people. Of course everyone has a role but KAVU is a team of problem-solvers. No one is above pitching in and helping. A few weeks ago I organized a last minute sample shipment to Germany. 3 people (president included) packed and stacked boxes and stayed after business hours to get the job done.

We’re located in the Ballard neighborhood so here’s some great running. Most days a group from the office runs across the Ballard bridge, through Discovery Park or the Golden Gardens Stairs.

What are the inspirations behind what Kavu do?

The inspiration is built into the brand. It’s the KAVU philosophy and lifestyle. Check out our youtube channel for great videos like “What we do” and "Perspective from Jeff Shapiro”.

Kavu is popular all over the World - what is this down to? Which are the most popular countries for Kavu?

KAVU is popular all over the world for several reasons. One which I’ve already touched on - the KAVU philosophy and lifestyle. But also because KAVU stands for fun. We don’t take ourselves too seriously. We are different and that’s ok. We want to be different. This sense of fun, free and unlimited lifestyle resonates with customers. Also, we try and treat everyone like gold - customers, retail buyers, retail staff, agents and distributors.

Which are the best selling Kavu products?

KAVU hats are super heritage. Our tops in apparel sell great. But the real star is our bag collection - in particular the shoulder bag styles Rope Bag and Rope Sling, the climbing chalk bag Peak Seeker, and the accessory pouch Pixie Pouch.

Kavu are based in Seattle - what are the best hikes around the area?

Too many to count. Go to Big Si or Mailbox Peak off I-90, Lake Serene and Bridal Falls near Index off Highway 2. If you’re in the area during the fall do the really pretty and really tough 18 mi Enchantments Traverse.

Store Q+A: Urban Industry

Something that we’ve asked a lot of brands and stores about since we started the magazine is the crossover between everyday and outdoor clothing. This was perhaps more relevant than most when we put the question to Dan from Urban Industry, who recently took the decision to expand the range of outdoor brands available at his Eastbourne based store. To find out why he’s deciding to do this, and learn more about this ace store, we sent some questions over.

When was Urban Industry founded? Could you explain a bit about the background of the store?

We opened the store in November 2002 in a back street of Eastbourne. I’d been working for a web design agency and had been made redundant and my girlfriend at the time had hated her job, so we just decided to try and make a go of a store. I had my own brand called Dirty habit which was based in the Mountain Biking market, so we thought we could run that from the store too.

What brands did you stock initially?

We opened with a handful of brands like Dickies, Addict, Mooks, Alphanumeric and other kinds of skate cross over brands. These brands were based in the ‘counter culture’ as you probably could have called it back then, hip hop, graffiti, skating etc and nowadays you’d just hang the word ‘streetwear’ over it.  My background had been BMX’ing, but I’d always worn the brands of the skateboarders we hung out with, so the store followed my tastes.

You mentioned to us that the store is going to shift to be more outdoor focused - do you feel there is a crossover now between everyday and outdoor wear?

Sort of yes. It’s been a fun and interesting few seasons as trends have led us to outdoor brands like Patagonia, Arcteryx, The North Face etc. For me it’s a fresh chance to put a stake in the ground for what Urban Industry is and stands by. Brands like these make clothing that actually works in terms of durability and functionality, they stand the test of time and they look cool! We’ve been in business almost 17 years and we’ve gone in and around trends, but we’ve always kept to the streetwear vibe, hopefully interesting independent brands with a big dose of the best of the big brands like Nike and adidas. We want to present the store as somewhere where you can purchase a cool pair of sneakers but also a jacket fit for purpose that would work up a mountain as much as it does on the street. Functional fashion that is made for daily use, accessible for the most part in terms of cost too. We’re not chasing the high fashion route of a nylon shell jacket for 300-400 quid whatever, even for fashion what’s the point if it doesn’t keep you dry? A logo?

Where did your passion for Outdoor tech come from?

When I was younger, I used to do a lot of walking on the Sussex downs with my family as we had a dog. Holidays were always in North Wales, the Lake District or Scotland. I just seem to have this fascination with all things military, camping and survival. A guy called Peter Duncan  who was a Blue Peter presenter did a spin off show called ‘Duncan Dares’ and he did this two-parter where he learnt how to survive on his own with the help of Lofty Wiseman an SAS survival expert. I loved it! I must have watching it 50 times over the months on our family VCR.

Along with all this I developed a ‘problem’ for outdoor jackets from brands like Lowe Alpine, Berghaus, Mountain Equipment, I just couldn’t afford them! My bible was a yearly catalogue from a store called ‘Survival Aids’ based in Penrith. I’d pour over the Ventile jackets, military Bergen’s and these huge knives with survival gadgets in the hilt. I dread to think what my parents thought I might turn out like…

We're big fans of your Fish Industry tees - do you plan on doing more own brand product?

Thanks!  Yes, I was really pleased with how they came out and it’s given me the confidence to produce more own label products for Urban Industry. I’m in the process of sourcing quality pieces and hopefully  exploring more sustainable options too as I think we need to try and add that into all that we do from here on in where possible.

What are the top brands for you at the moment?

At the moment it’s the big boys like Nike, Vans and the Outdoor labels like Patagonia and The North Face. We’re also selling staple workwear from brands like Carhartt WIP and Dickies. We’re also seeing a good reaction when brands like Converse hook up with Gore-Tex® and use the fabric for a classic Chuck. The streetwear/outdoor crossover works very well indeed. I’m also looking forward to seeing more from Nike ACG this and next year as the colour pops are so on point.

What plans do Urban Industry have for the future?

Keep moving forward and developing different sections of the store as we go. As I mentioned I want to add a sustainable element to the store, so we can give customers the option of picking brands that are thinking about their impact on the environment whether its traceable down, less water use, fair trade or whatever. It’s going to be a start as I’m not naïve enough to think it will change everything that we stock over night but it’s a start none the less.

https://www.urbanindustry.co.uk/

Craghoppers Archive Collection

Founded over 50 years Craghoppers are a brand full of history and this history is going to be celebrated by a new archive collection, which is launching next year. To find out more we sent some questions over to e-commerce executive Alex Wall who explained more.

Could you explain a bit about the history of Craghoppers?

We were actually founded back in the late 60’s by Brian Gaskin and Roy Holmes but originally operated under the brand G&H Product. The first pieces we put out were the Cagjac and our Kiwi trousers which have since gone on to sell over 7 million pairs worldwide.

Gaskin was a potholer by trade and one of the leading members of the Cave Rescue Organisation. At the time, the only waterproofs available in the UK were from Peter Storm and Henri Lloyd but both were either too light or too heavy which is where the idea for the original Cagjac came from. As a mid-weight waterproof, the Cagjac was perfect for caving, climbing and walking.

In 1975, we sponsored the successful Everest expedition being run by Chris Bonnington. The Cagjac was actually the jacket of choice up to about 10,000ft. After 10,000ft mountaineers opted for our Nordwand which is actually the piece of kit you can see Doug Scott wearing if you Google ‘Doug Scott Everest’!

G&H Products acquired the Craghoppers brand in 1979 after their owners wanted to retire and decided to operate under the name Craghoppers going forward.

In recent years, we’ve spent a lot of time perfecting our NosiLife technology which can be found across a lot of our products and for next year we’ve got our upcoming Archive Collection.

What is the Archive Collection?

We wanted to see if we could recreate our iconic styles but use the technologies that we put into our current pieces. We feel we’ve managed that and the entire team are really proud of the range.

What are the main inspirations behind this particular collection?

You’ll see a lot of influences from the late 80’s/ early 90’s in this collection.

You’ve already told us quite a bit of stuff we didn’t know about Craghoppers - do you have any more interesting facts people may not know about the brand?

The founder of a well-known Californian outdoor brand used to fly over to the UK to buy our gear as he was unable to get anything of the sort back in the states. You can actually read about this in his book ‘let my people go surfing’.

What do you reckon to the crossover now between proper outdoor gear and everyday wear?

There’s definitely a crossover here in the North West and you can judge the popularity based on the new stores that’ve been popping up in Manchester and Liverpool.

In the last 12 months alone, we’ve had Patagonia and Fjallraven open flagship retail stores in Manchester and then we’ve had Ellis Brigham open up Outsiders Store in Liverpool.

Alongside that, other retailers such as Oi Polloi seem to be stocking more outdoor brands than ever. There is definitely a blurred line in the North West between outdoor and everyday wear.

Our lookbook for the collection, which we’ve worked on with Proper Mag, focusses on outdoor gear in the city so you’ll see the crossover feature a lot in that. There’s a video to come too which we’re really excited to put out.

What’s your top three Craghoppers pieces?

For me, the Bridport Shirt Jacket, Kiwi Pro Shorts and the Venta Lite II. I’m pretty confident everyone in the office owns a Venta Lite.

The stand out piece from the Archive Collection, for me, is the Ashfield Half-Zip. Had a lot of compliments on this from people who’ve seen the range already!

What’s the plans going forward for Craghoppers and also the Archive Collection?

For next season you’ll see some changes to some of our classic pieces. We’ve got a Venta Lite II vest and a hooded version of the jacket being added to the collection which I’m excited about. We’re going to start working on the next Archive Collection very soon so really looking forward to working with the design team on that.

You’ll see the Archive Collection drop as part of our Spring/ Summer 19 range.

This feature was initially released last year in No.2 of our magazine - you can shop the Craghoppers Archive Collection here: https://www.craghoppers.com/archive-collection/ 

Fronteer: Q+A with Jon Tang

Footwear that looks good, and is functional – that, put simply, is the best way for us to describe the offering of shoes from Fronteer. Just how do you manage to do that though? Well, we thought we’d get answers straight from the man himself, and pestered Jon Tang, founder and creative director of the brand to give us some insight.

Could you explain a bit about Fronteer? And how you started the brand?

​Fronteer is a lifestyle outdoor brand. It bridges the gap between performance outdoors and the everyday lifestyle. It's meant to really be the grey area between and tells a narrative of outdoor culture for the everyday. I started the brand in 2015 out of just my own shear passion to make something that spoke to things I loved like space, nature, inspiration and the idea of the journey. ​

What is the process like in designing and then manufacturing a pair of Fronteer Shoes? The Aqua Solo, for example, how long did it take to go from initial idea to finished product?

My timeline is around 5-6 months from sketch to consumer hands. A lot of process goes into really figuring what kind of product each is going to be. It's so important to really give a reason for everything that exists for each product. Everything really has to connect as whole to the inspiration from what it is and how that still is a part of the FRONTEER DNA.​

What are the inspirations behind the footwear you make?

I am inspired by the outdoor culture. I like to really dive into stories and fun facts about the outdoors that I can manifest into something tangible. It’s great when I can really find something that fits a great story but also gives you something you didn't know or expect.

Each pair of Fronteer shoes are limited in quantity - is this an intentional decision? Or just something that happened naturally?

​The decision to make less really comes from the idea that I just didn't want to overproduce something. We make a lot of things in this world and I want to be smart about what I'm putting into this world. ​

You've already worked on a collab with Manastash, do you reckon you'll be working on more collaborations? How did the Manastash collab come about?

​I love all the collaborations I get to do. I have a great relationship with that team. ​Collaborations are great because it gives you a moment to stretch your brand in a different kind of way that connects with the other brand. It offers a new kind of perspective for both brands. If it's the right kind of collaboration, I'm always willing to figure something out. The Manastash collab happened cause they were sitting across from me at a tradeshow. I'd see them everything. We both found we had a similar thought process on our own take on the outdoors. A connection happened almost instantly.

What plans do Fronteer have for the future?

Just to grow. And grow organically. I hope people can adopt FRONTEER naturally for their own everyday and stay with us on this journey of telling these outdoor cultured stories. ​

Rag Parade: Q+A with Jojo Elgarice

Here at Outdoor Wear Mag, we really enjoy a mixture of heritage and contemporary. Whether that's a leading brand like Holubar (see Issue 2) with a tried and tested offering of classic garments, or a new kid on the block like Mamnick (see Issue 3) channelling historic details into their contemporary portfolio. We appreciate both the original and the re-invented in equal measure, understanding that they bring something similar, yet distinct in their own right, to the table.

For Issue 4, we decided to place the spotlight on some iconic vintage outerwear from the archive of Jojo Elgarice, owner of Jojo’s General Store by Rag Parade in Sheffield. Self-confessed vintage menswear obsessive with a penchant for well-made garms, Jojo pulled some rare items off the racks for us to look at. We also asked the man himself about his fascination with vintage outerwear and why it has seen a resurgence in recent years.

Read on to find out more and head over to Instagram to see more vintage outerwear from Jojo @ragparadesheffield

What is the aim or approach of Rag Parade?

I suppose the aim of Rag Parade is to offer well made and unusual garments that you wouldn’t often find in one place. The selection of stock is my own personal edit on what I think is good looking and functional gear.

How did Rag Parade come to build its collection of vintage outerwear?

I started off selling my old music and skate tees in a shop in Sheffield city centre but quickly became fixated with vintage jackets and outerwear. I became obsessed with finding better and better gear and was really into the details of the pieces: Zips, throat-tabs, chin straps, press studs and buttons were (and still are) key elements in what I was looking for when buying a vintage garment.

What are the best outdoor spots around Sheffield?

We’re spoilt for choice around Sheffield with outdoor spots. Stanage Edge, which is great for climbing and bouldering, is just a stone’s throw away. Dam Flask, Rivelin Valley, Mam Tor, Chatsworth, the Trans Pennine Trail and lots of beautiful parks and gardens are all close as well. The list goes on...

What is it about vintage outerwear that appeals to you?

Firstly, I love the functionality and the way the fabric ages. The age and wear of a vintage garment is almost impossible to replicate in my opinion.

Why do you think that outdoor gear has made such a comeback in current street style?

I think it makes the whole outfit flow and it ties everything together. I suppose jackets have almost become ‘statement’ pieces. I know we’ve had a good summer but it’s also always freezing in Sheffield, so you need a good jacket year-round!

What are some of your favourite features of a vintage garment?

Like most other ‘jacket geeks’ I’m a sucker for zips and labels. Also hoods and pockets. They just made them better back in the day!

Who are some of the British brands that have been responsible for progressing developments in outerwear in the twentieth century?

I suppose what made British brands so powerful was the cloth. Grenfell Cloth for example was around long before Ventile and it played a major role in many great designs and garments, as well as early waterproofing techniques.

I think Burberry played a huge part by inventing Gabardine. Shackleton wore Burberry for some of his expeditions and it really showed the endurance of the cloth. The Burberry Trench coat was created during the First World War and it is an important part of how garments developed afterwards.

I’ve always been fascinated with Wyncol fabric by Aquascutum as well, which Edmond Hillary used in his Everest climb in 1953. It was a Cotton/Nylon/Poplin mix and could apparently resist winds of up to 100mph. We’re pleased to have recently added two garments made in this cloth to our Archive.

Although Barbour didn’t necessarily invent waxed cotton or oilskin fabric, I think that the work they achieved with military and outdoors clothing really did set a precedent. Along with Belstaff, they created some amazing garments with waxed cotton.

Then when fabrics like Gore-Tex were introduced, Berghaus were the first European company to use it in their garments. I love old Mountain Equipment down Jackets and just like Berghaus, they remain very iconic pieces for me.

Fabric has always played a key part in outerwear, from waxed cotton, to Ventile and Gore-Tex. What fabric is the most functional for an outdoor garment?

I love waxed cotton: the way it wears, fades and cracks. But, the up-keep can be hard work and impractical. I’ve personally never been a huge fan of wearing Goretex and disagree that it has “breathable properties”. It’s a bit of a sweatbox for me! Ventile is the King in my eyes: the breathability is mega and as long as it’s looked after properly it really does the job. The simple look of the fabric means that almost anything can be made from it too.

Do you think we will continue to see outdoor wear rise in popularity in the coming years?

Yes I think it will become more popular, especially as more people are growing concerned over quality rather than quantity. In the shop we sell outerwear even on the hottest summer days, so I suppose that’s testimony to its demand.

Any parting words or advice for our readers?

Try and buy the best kit you can so you don’t have to buy it again.

Nanamica: Q+A with Eiichiro Homa

A brand that continues to push boundaries when it comes to technical design, and for us epitomises the crossover between outdoor and everyday gear is nanamica. When the chance came up to ask some questions to the founder of the brand Eiichiro Homa we were delighted.

We’d also like to say thanks to Ian from nanamica for helping arrange the interview.

What does the name nanamica mean?

The word ‘nanamica’ can roughly be translated to the house of seven seas.

What are the main inspirations behind the collections that you create?

It is impossible to say I am not inspired by daily life in Tokyo. It is a very special city after all. I get inspiration from observing people on the train or street on their daily commute to work and myself as a user of nanamica garments. In addition, since my hobby is sailing, the ocean and marine aspects are fundamental to what we do. We try to add an element to each piece we create.

It is during these ‘on’ and ‘off’ periods where we find inspiration. Sportswear, military, workwear, American classics and other vintage pieces are also key.

The brand is sold and admired throughout the world - what makes your garments so popular?

nanamica was soon recognised as a pioneer in mixing fashion and function since its birth in 2003. By combining classic looking clothing with the very latest in technology of functionality, we have been able to create the best tools for our everyday lives the world over. Now this direction has become popular.

How much work goes into creating a particular garment? How long does it take to go from initial idea to the finished garment?

We invest a lot of time into each and every product we create. Whilst we have two collections per year, we also have 6 months to dedicate to each however, we are reviewing and revisiting constantly to ensure functional clothing that will stand the test of time and often come with a little surprise.

How big is the nanamica team?

The team at our HQ in Daikanyama is now 20 employees strong including myself. We also have 14 staff members across our stores.

nanamica has a number of physical store locations - how important to the brand is this? Are there plans for more stores? In Europe maybe?

We have four stores currently and these enable us to meet and have regular face-to-face interaction with our customers here in Japan. They act as a window and we prefer this type on interaction. 

Our two bricks and mortar stores in Tokyo are both in Daikanyama – a quieter neighbourhood when compared to Harajuku or Shibuya for example. If we had stores located there, we may not be able to take care of our customers one by one.

Elsewhere our 18fw collection will be stocked in 24 countries and we are looking at opening our own stores in Europe and North America.

Could you explain to us a bit more about The North Face Purple Label gear?

The North Face Purple Label is our collaboration with The North Face brand in Japan, which is owned and operated by GOLDWIN as it is in South Korea. The head of The North Face business at GOLDWIN is an old and dear friend. After establishing nanamica in 2003, I asked him to consider collaborating to create a new fashion-orientated line of The North Face.

What plans do nanamica have for the future?

As mentioned, a bricks and mortar presence overseas is next up but we will continue to do what we always have done: create the products that humans need to assist and enjoy their lives.

 

Information correct as of May 2018 - Feature first  published in Outdoor Wear Mag No.1